By Jessica Carreras
Walking along Nine Mile Road in eclectic downtown Ferndale, the front of AJ O'Neil's Cafe is barely noticeable from the outside, tucked among dozens of shops and eateries. "We're getting the sign put up next week," the cafe's namesake explains, gesturing toward the hand drawn sign taped to the front window.
O'Neil, who turns 45 this August, is upbeat and talkative. He wears an orange Hawaiian-print shirt with the top buttons open and his shaggy, dark blond hair spills out of his Detroit Tigers' cap – a symbol of his love of sports. Branden Reeves, his professional and romantic partner, is a quiet, poetic 23-year-old with bracelet-clad arms and a pierced nose. He wears his black hair in short, hip dreadlocks and his faded T-shirt fitted. One would hardly guess that the two just celebrated their one-year anniversary at the beginning of last month, a date that also marked the purchase of their new cafe.
The unassuming storefront, however, belies the cuisine at O'Neil's Cafe, where menu items include blueberry and chicken tacos and soups made from recipes suggested by customers. "Everyone's got a soup recipe," O'Neil insists, explaining that their list of soup-of-the-week suggestions is growing faster than they can keep up with.
As for the non-traditional taco fillings? "Many people say, 'Chicken and blueberries?'" he says, mimicking customers' confused looks. "But then they taste it and it's very good."
Other tacos include tuna and peanut butter and – the most popular – tilapia, a mild white fish. Though many would shy away from working with their partner, O'Neil and Reeves use their unique skills to their advantage. While O'Neil does most of the cooking and handles the business side of things, Reeves manages entertainment and ambiance. And, jokes a regular, "He stands around and looks good."
"It was his youth and optimism that got me out of roofing," O'Neil says, citing his former job in construction while stealing a loving glance at his partner. Reeves' coffee-colored skin reddens slightly at the compliment.
"It's been a little stressful," Reeves admits of the cafe's toll on their relationship, "but you have to separate work from your personal life."
Their life outside of coffee, they say, is almost non-existent since the cafe's opening in mid-April. The couple sleeps in Royal Oak, but spends the majority of their days in their cafe.
Though business in their first month has been good, they admit that they still have a long way to go. "It's like a teenager," says O'Neil. "Not grown up yet, but it's getting there."
The decor at O'Neil's is sparse: brightly colored walls with local artists' work meet faded hardwood floors bedecked with tables and chairs that often teeter on uneven legs. There is no air conditioning; instead, fans buzz overhead. On one side of the cafe, a small stage sits empty during the day, but welcomes frequent poets, actors and musicians at night.
The sprawling old building used to house the coffeeshop and hip hangout Xhedos, which occupied the space for 10 years prior. Like the place before it, O'Neil's has events most nights, including Wednesday open mic nights and a poetry slam every second and fourth Monday of the month. In May and June, their musical director, Josh James, has booked several musicians and improv troupes. "The name change has taken time," O'Neil says, "and we're trying to keep the flow but also make our own identity."
While O'Neil and Reeves have upheld some of the cafe's traditions – including a bohemian look and feel – catering to Xhedos' vegan visitors has been tough for the meat-loving men. "We're learning," O'Neil admits of providing animal-free options. "We ask them what they like."
From their questioning, popular cuisine like their tofu and polenta tacos, vegan juices and black bean soup have popped up on the menu in the past few weeks.
In addition to a large vegan and vegetarian crowd, O'Neil explains that their customers are very diverse. "We get a cross section of every kind of person in here," O'Neil says, laughing. "Everyone from children with ice cream cones to transgenders with lattes."
AJ O'Neil's Cafe
240 W. Nine Mile Road, Ferndale
(248) 399-3946
